Parco Ducale – Mangia Bene, Ridi Spesso, Ama Molto

Mille Miglia, third leg in Parma: Part 1

Last Saturday the sophisticated and reserved city of Parma was shaken and stirred by rumbles and roars, fortunately not by an earthquake, but a storm of colour, noise and excitement. For the first time the Mille Miglia used Parma as an overnight stop, closing the third day of race: the route had started in Rome, traveled to Parma, via Viterbo, Siena, Pisa, Lucca and Abetone. This was a special milestone for the city of Parma as in previous years the race had either bypassed or run through with just a time check. This year the magnificent endless fleet of the most beautiful and elegant classic cars in the world took centre stage in the modest streets of Parma. The Mille Miglia , is said to be the “most beautiful race in the world.” 1,000 miles of Italy’s most beautiful regions, starting and ending in Brescia. Only the cars selected from the models which took part in the original race can participate to Mille Miglia, teams come from all over the world. The cars were not due to arrive until around 9pm that evening. Parma, the city was taking it all in its stride, that afternoon there was very little clue that the grandiose collection of classic cars were coming to town. A few barriers here and there waiting to be put in line. The city had more of a buzz than usual with tourists milling around, but still a blanket of composure resided. Some great friends of ours had driven from the UK to share the magical experience with us. We left our apartment like a bunch of excited teenagers, strolled down the main Via Republica, capturing the atmosphere as we went. The calm before the storm. The plan was to find an initial viewing point, strategically placed where we could sit and watch the beginning of the show, a perfect result, a bar placed on the main roundabout where the cars were to pass by.

Perfect for the Parma ‘Aperitivo’. We didn’t need to wait for long, the tribute, the warm up act arrived….. The thunderous roar of engines abruptly interrupted our quiet Prosecco. The Italian stallion Ferrari’s engines resounded throughout introduced with flashing lights and sirens, a brigade of police motor bikes.

Following the fast and furious Ferrari’s came the sedate sophisticated Mercedes all in line, well behaved in quiet perfection.

As the evening darkness pulled its curtains on us, Parma shone in its splendour beckoning the weary classic car drivers to finish their endless journey. They had driven from Rome through the magnificent Italian countryside, through historic cities , Lucca, Siena, Florence, over mountains and around country lanes.

The crowd’s excitement was infectious, the drivers drove past catching the bug of enthusiasm, finding themselves energised. The energy reverberated back and forth, spectators to drivers. High fives, cheers, waves and shouts encouraged them on to the finishing line for that evening.

Some of the many highlights of the evening included welcoming the celebrities from the British Jaguar team Jodie Kidd and David Gandy slowly crawled wearily in the long queue into the historic town of Parma, tired but elated.

Later came James Martin and Charley Boorman, again part of the British Jaguar team.

The long queue led to the Piazza next to the Duomo, which was the central stage, the drivers and cars were introduced to the public, a few lucky people had prime viewing as they had booked their seats in an open air restaurant.

The commotion, elation and buzz of emotions continued on well into the late hours. Weary drivers made their way to their hotel after parking their machines in the magnificent Parco Ducale, rows upon rows of the most beautiful, historic, classical and expensive cars sat there recuperating, some ‘being looked after’ by the dedicated teams of mechanics.

There was still time for us to watch and stare, while eavesdropping on the team’s stories while sipping a glass of Prosseco. And tomorrow…………… tomorrow is another story…………………. Next……………….Arrivederci e buon viaggio …. The race continues…..

Mille Miglia Part 2 : THE NEXT MORNING Buon viaggio e Arrivederci!

The next morning bright and early we, now the ‘intrepid enthusiasts’, sneaked back into the park to see the sleepy teams arrive and make their final alterations and clean up before the final lap. In the morning light the array of shiny classic mobiles was just as, or perhaps even more, thrilling.

The atmosphere was lively with smell of engine oil, engines roaring into life, although there were the few more reluctant which grumbled and spluttered, but with a bit of team work and a push they were off around the park.

Lucky for us the bar was open so we sat back to tuck into the standard Italian breakfast, cornetti and brioches together with a cappuccino and watched the show.

Even had prime seat to see the celebs arrive…. and leave in style.

The park was slowly emptying, most of the cars had made their way towards the starting line, all in number order.

One of the last was part of the Jaguar team, Charley Boreman and James Martin were going over the final checks, getting ready for the last lap. They were very relaxed and happy to chat about their adventures. We cheekily took advantage by asking for them to sign our official Mille Miglia Poster that the bar owner had kindly given us.

We wished them on their way as they drove off to the top of the park and starting line, but due to the bottleneck of the queue we soon caught up with them.

An excellent opportunity to admire the beautiful motors before they left and a chat about omelettes, that is, James remarking on the number of omelettes each car was worth, yes….. a lot of omelettes!

An hour later after the last car had left, we wandered back through the empty still park……………..All was back to normal, as if nothing had happened.

Il pranzo della domenica (Sunday Lunch)

On a crisp, cold and bright Sunday in February, the perfect plan was hatched: a lunch at the nearby friendly restaurant, followed by a walk in the park adjacent to the restaurant.

‘Ristorante Corale Verdi’

I first learnt of this restaurant before we moved to Parma. We were feeling a little nervous about the move, uncertainty and trepidation was prime in our minds. So when Chef Rick Stein’s programme on BBC on food and music, namely Italian opera, was shown I was ready to be seduced.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b00sm1g0

Rick Stein talked of a restaurant where upstairs the Operatic Society met and practiced while downstairs the chef cooked traditional ‘ Cibo Parmigiano’.

Corale Verde was therefore a must visit on our adventures to Parma. Our first visit we ensured we booked a table. Completely unaware of how ‘to eat in Parma’ we then proceeded to have the Antipasto, Primi and then Secondi Piatti. Probably a mistake every ‘green’ tourist to Italy may make.

Of course we know better now. Two years after our first, perhaps embarrassingly naive visit, we moved into a lovely apartment, just a stone’s throw from the said Restaurant. A very beautiful, almost Bohemian part of the city, near the University.

Sunday lunch, the great excuse for a warming comfortable meal, not rushed, and savouring the atmosphere of the ‘Italian Family celebrating Sunday’.

Our family is now slightly diminished as the two older boys are at University in the UK. A table for three, although a small number, would soon blend in. We arrived early as we had not booked, but were greeted warmly by the staff, making us feel right at home. Luckily for us the restaurant was empty, a table for three? Certo, prego senza problema…….

The empty restaurant soon filled becoming a noisy bustling and busy place. We soon felt perfectly comfortable, surrounded by all the other Italian families, and ordered our meal in anticipation.

Primi: Ravioli ripieni di patate e culatello

Primi: Tagliatelle funghi e castagne — Primi:
Tagliatelle funghi e castagne

washed down with a lovely bottle of local ‘Monte delle Vigne’ rosso wine

After our anti pasti and primi, secondo piatto was out of the question.

But as we were not in any hurry we sat back sipped our wine, chatted and watch the scene around us, including the restaurant’s owner proudly serving up the secondi for other diners.

Bolliti di Carne